Life lately | Berlin is calling

Germany has European charm by the bucketful, does train travel as well as anywhere else, and offers 100 different ways to cook a potato, what’s not to love? (Answer: absolutely nothing.) But making Germany home as a non-fluent, non-EU foreigner was harder than I expected.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from my year of living abroad it’s that plans are made to be changed. You’ll come up with a dozen backup plans and each one of them will fall through. Something goes wrong, someone tells you no, or you change your mind completely and start from square one. As someone that works best with goals and plans, that’s been a huge adjustment for me. Over the past year, I can’t tell you how many rejection emails I’ve read or the hours I’ve wasted scrolling through my Facebook feed and wondering what I’d be doing if I were in the States. Honestly, it’s been the feeling so directionless -not the thousands of miles between me and my family and friends, the seemingly (but not really) insurmountable language barrier, or the lack of quality peanut butter in the entire country- that’s been the hardest part of my first year as an expat.

I started 2015 determined to give myself a future in Germany and over the last five months, I’ve worked really hard to make it happen. And finally I have good news to share with y’all: I’m moving to Berlin to be a grad student!

frei universität jfk institute berlin

Freie University’s JFK Institute, home for the next two years.

I was never one to want to go back to grad school right out of undergrad, but this was even truer during my senior year when I started to become more and more unsure of what I really wanted to do after graduation. But here in Germany -and I think Europe, more broadly- it’s super common to get all of your schooling out of the way at once. (I copy-edited a letter of motivation for a Belgian applying for his FOURTH degree program!)

I’d flirted with the idea of grad school when I first arrived, knowing that F’s plan has always been to get his master’s degree, but it wasn’t until F and I were trying to come up with our “longer”-term plans at the beginning of this year that I started to look at it as a viable option. Knowing that we’d probably have the most luck in a bigger city -Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Dresden- we tried to cast a wide net in looking for a city that offered something that appealed to us both plus something in English for me. I was pretty sure, and happily so, that it would come down to Berlin.

I spent all of March working on my applications, and by the end of April, all that was left was to wait. Waiting for uni-assist to receive them, review them, email my confirmation, forward them to the universities, the evaluations, the interview, the arrival of the letters. It’s been a stressful couple of months, to say the least, but finally, there’s a definite plan. I can’t believe it. I’m a master’s student at Freie Universität -one of Berlin’s great public universities- and I’ll be working towards a career in journalism.

Now to breathe a sigh of relief that my visa won’t run out on the 10th!

goodbye uferstraße

In preparation for the upcoming move to Berlin, we’ve temporarily moved back to Burbecke. Leaving Marburg, my first apartment in Germany, and the friends I have there is definitely bitter-sweet. As ready as I feel to move on, doing the final walk-through and saying a last goodbye was sadder than I expected. But on the bright side, with F in charge and armed with tie-down straps and four suitcases to stuff things in, this was by far the breeziest move I’ve ever made and we were on to the celebratory Kaffee-Kuchen in just three hours. And now I get to enjoy the rest of my summer: time with friends, a summer vacation, cycling along the Rhine.

Do you work better with a plan? How do you handle it when you don’t have one/it doesn’t work out?

8 of the best coffeshops and cafes in Marburg

best cafes in marburg set image

Coffee is an important part of a German day. If you’ve been around here before then you’ll already know about the 4 o’clock Kaffee-Kuchen, the all-important German cafe tradition. Despite being a smaller German city, Marburg has a lot of cafes to choose from. During the last year here, it’s been my mission to try out as many of them as possible, allowing me to slowly compile a list of my favorites. Below are eight cafes in Marburg that I think have something to offer everyone, from the occasional pick-me-up coffee drinker to the coffee-aficionado.

Café Vetterterrace cafe vetter marburg

This century-old cafe, with its cozy dining room and terrace that overlooks the city, is our first stop to impress visiting friends. For four generations, Cafe Vetter has occupied this spot on the sloping cobblestone streets of the Oberstadt, and just like its location, it feels like nothing has changed inside this old cafe. Stepping into Cafe Vetter, the warm, dark colors, matching china sets, and wicker-backed chairs remind you of being at Oma’s houses. Despite serving breakfast and light-food options, Cafe Vetter is most popular for the very German four o’clock Kaffee-Kuchen. It’s no surprise with their impressive offering of creamy, fruity, and “chocolatey” cakes baked fresh daily; there’s something to satisfy everyone.
Reitgasse 4, 35037 Marburg, 06421-25888, http://www.cafe-vetter-marburg.de, Open Mon-Sun 9am – 6pm

Konditorei Café Klingelhöfer

afternoon coffee and cake at klingelhöfer on haspelstraße
Hidden away on Südviertel’s quieter, more residential streets is Klingelhöfer, the other of Marburg’s very German cafes. Like Cafe Vetter, it’s been family-run for more than 100 years, serving homemade cakes baked from classic German recipes. But the differences amount to more than just the modern look and feel of Klingelhöfer. It has a lot of things going for it that give it an edge (at least in my mind): its unbelievably expansive dessert selection, its offering of a seasonal lunch menu that’s changed weekly, and its homemade ice cream.
 Haspelstraße 21, 35037 Marburg, 06421-23372, www.konditorei-klingelhoefer.de, Open Tues-Sun 8am – 6pm. Wettergasse 38, 35037 Marburg, 06421-64206,  Open Tues-Sat 9.45am – 6.30pm, Sun 1pm – 6pm

Kaffeerösterei C&T

the coffee and tea company in marburg germany gutenbergstraßec&t coffeeshop gutenbergstraßeThe coffeeshop-culture so common in the US has been slow to take root in Marburg. C&T is one of the exceptions. This American-style cafe, with its chai lattes, donuts and selection of bagels, has become wildly popular with Marburg’s younger, “hipper” crowd. Located on a Südviertel sidestreet surrounded by student apartments, the store’s inside feels minimal, not the coziest coffeeshop, with just a handful of high-top tables and stools, shelves full of coffee mugs for sale, and a back wall covered in tins of its coffee and tea varieties from around the world. But what C&T lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for with its good, roasted-fresh-daily coffee, priced below 2€ for a cup, which is also available to-go.
 Gutenbergstraße 11A, 35037 Marburg, 06421-167945, www.mein-eigener-kaffee.de, Mon-Fri 10am-6pm

Kaffeerösterei Bohne

cafe bohne marburgLocated a stone’s throw away from the busy center of the Oberstadt is Bohne, the city’s comfy neighborhood cafe whose warm colors, commanding coffee bar, and chalkboard menu are reminiscent of Central Perk. All that’s missing is a goofy Gunther! At Bohne, their sole focus is good coffee. It’s this devotion -the more than twenty varieties available, daily on-site roastings, and a coffee truck that travels to the local farmer’s market- that has gained Bohne a group of loyal regulars. And even though it’s true that any place that serves me good coffee in a cup the size of a soup bowl has my heart, it’s the cool, chill vibe of this place that keeps me coming back. Inside it’s very laid-back. On any given day you’re likely to see the tables full, baristas chatting with customers, and people reading newspapers outside.
Steinweg 19, 35037 Marburg, 06421-690655, http://www.kaffee-bohne.de, Open Mon-Fri 10am-6.30pm, Sat 10am-4pm

Ufercafe Gischler

busy-day-at-ufercafe-gischlerAt the first sign of warmer weather, this cafe along the Lahn is in high demand with the student crowd. At first glance it doesn’t look like much, a converted boat shed turned coffee bar and a scatter of picnic tables, but don’t let Ufercafe Gischler fool you. This one-of-a-kind Marburg cafe is the place to be on a warm, sunny day. With a menu that includes beer and ice cream as well as coffee and hot waffles, Ufercafe’s got your afternoon in the sun covered. After eating, for 10€ you can rent a paddleboat for an hour and ride out on the Lahn.
Auf dem Wehr 1A, 35037 Marburg, 06421-8048467, http://www.ufercafe-gischler.de, Open Sun-Mon 9am-11pm

Die Pause

die pause secret staircase marburg

Tucked into the side of the Oberstadt, halfway up a narrow flight of stairs that aren’t used so often is the pocket-sized cafe/restaurant, Die Pause. Inside you step into a bright, stone sunroom. In the window is a stone bar covered in newspapers, perfect for an afternoon coffee and across the room is a small stone staircase that leads up to the main dining room. Though on a nice day it’s usually full in the afternoon, you can usually find space for a coffee and cake, but if you’re interested in coming for dinner it’s best to call ahead and make a reservation.
Wettergasse 16, 35037 Marburg, 06421 1831804, www.die-pause-marburg.de, Open Mon-Thurs 9am-10pm, Fri-Sat 9am-11pm

Café Cappuccino

bologna focaccio and a cappuccino from cafe cappuccino marburg

Walking through the Oberstadt’s main square you’ll soon find yourself bumping into tables and chairs on the cafe-lined street of Barfüßstraße. The one that catches your eye first, the one with the hand-carved, mint-green facade like something you’d find on an old theater, is Cappuccino. And though it does serve a mean cappuccino, it’s more bistro than cafe, serving a menu of spirits, salads, sandwiches, and specials along with its coffee. The atmosphere here is just as good as the food. Everything about Cappuccino is relaxing: from the jazz music floating around the mustard-yellow interior, students clicking away at their computers, and the sounds from the coffee makers and the friendly staff. But if a quiet, relaxing cafe isn’t what you’re searching for, Cappuccino is open later, even offering a Prosecco and house wine happy hour from 7pm-8pm on Mondays and Tuesdays.
• Barfüßerstraße 46, 35037 Marburg, 06421-210283, http://www.facebook.com/cappuccinomr

Vila Vita Café Rosenpark

villa vita cafe rosenpark marburg

This isn’t really a recommendation since I haven’t actually been to Cafe Rosenpark, but I wanted to add it the list because it was one of the places recommended to me by a native Marburger. And just look how cute it is! This place is known for its buffet-style brunch and breakfasts (notably the Elisabethfrühstück).
Anneliese Pohl Allee 7-17, 35037 Marburg, 06421 60050, http://www.rosenpark.com/en/dining/cafe-rosenpark.html, Tues-Sun 9am-6pm

Have you been to a Marburg cafe? Did I miss one of your favorites? Let me know in the comments.